Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to explore these tales and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
